Suspension Basics

Before beginning your set-up, you will need your bike in proper working order. First, get the best brakes you can get. You can look at Roadracing World's April '98 issue to gain insight on which ones you might want to try (EBC, SBS, Ferrodo, etc.). Second, get good tires for your bike. Again, the tire you choose is subjective. What works for one rider may not work for another. Start by investing in good reliable rubber: Pirelli, Metzler, etc.. Third, make sure your bike is running properly. A badly tuned bike can mask or enhance what your suspension is already trying to tell you. (ie: abrupt throttle response will break loose the rear-end much like a rear shock set with too much re-bound).

If at all possible, seek competent advice from a professional suspension technician and/or tuner to make sure you start your set-up with appropriate springs for your weight and make sure they have adequate damping available to go racing and/or participate in track days.

SETTING STATIC SAG (THE RULE OF THUMB METHOD)

Assuming you now have the proper spring rate for your weight, you can now set your static sag. This method of checking static sag is not the definitive end all to suspension set-up but it will get you in the ballpark. Individual bikes will vary. For example, some bikes may work well with 25mm of sag in the front forks while others work better with 30mm of sag. This rule of thumb method has been the racer's basic set-up guide for over a decade and is still used today.

HOW TO:

Measuring the static sag of your bike is done with you on it. This will take several people to do. One person to hold the bike steady, the other to do the measuring. And then, there is you sitting on the bike with your feet on the pegs.

REAR: First, with you off the bike, lift up on the back of your bike or subframe to top out the suspension then measure from the ground to a chosen point on the tailsection or subframe like a metal bracket. (Make sure it's something solid. The plastic tailsection can flex and you will get inaccurate measurements.) Write down this measurement. Next, with someone stabilizing the front end, sit on the bike, feet on the pegs, kickstand up. Now, have the other person measure the height from the ground to the same spot on the tail section. The proper static sag with you on the bike shoud be 1 to 1 1/4 inch. If your spring is over or under-preloaded, it will make your bike perform poorly in numerous ways. If it sags too much or is topped-out, adjust it accordingly to the prescribed measurement.

FRONT: Place a zip-tie around the slider next to the dust seal. With someone stabilizing the rear end, sit on the bike, feet on the pegs and kickstand up. Let the bike sag naturally. Don't bounce up and down. That will cause the zip tie to slide further and give you an inaccurate measurement. Next, get off the bike, lift up on the bars (handlebars or clip-ons) and top out the forks. Measure the distance from the inside of the zip-tie to the dust seal. It should be about 1 to 1 1/4 inch. Adjust the pre-load accordingly to the prescribed measurement. This is your initial set-up.

DISCLAIMER: We make no specific claim or warranty to the performance of your particular motorcycle. Always consult with a suspension expert or certified mechanic before making changes to your machine.